16.08.2001
After some hours sleep, the alarm clock rings again and Jehangir starts with cooking. Fortunately, its does not rain anymore, because it is that cold that there is snow. But the snowfall decreases sight to some meters. So, there is nothing to do than waiting for the end of snowing or sunrise. After four hours at least the latter becomes true, and the porters prepare their salted tea in small tins.At 5 a.m., all are ready. We have to progress through 20cm newly-fallen snow, but the Gondogoro pass is properly marked by little flags, and therefore, we have at least no problems with orientation.The northern ascent to the Gondoro is alpine and crosses a glacier rich in crevasses. The porters only have a poor equipment. Only three of them have climbing irons fixed by simple straps to their sport boots. Most of them, however, have only cheapest plimsolls that are mostly torned and have holes over and over through which the snow comes in. Many porters wear their stockings over their boots in order to make them less slippery.
Two of the porters even wear plasic sandals. It is hardly to imagine what physical hardness the Balti-porters have. And we learn that we never had a real hard life. As long as one does not have to go with sandals in snowstorm, without gloves and cap at temperatures below zero degrees Celsius, carry a 20kg weight over a pass 5600m hight in order to nourrish his family, one has a real easy way of life, has not one?!
We help as much as we can, loan all our gloves, comforters and telescope sticks. It is not enough to equip all porters adequately, but we get gratitude and have friendly conversations. At 7.30 a.m., we reach the Gondogoro pass that is one of the most spectacular view point in the Central Karakorum with an unique panorama: 6 of the 20 highest mountain on Earth
Today, the cameras remain in our backpacks, there is nothing to be seen than snow. So we start to descent immediately. It takes nearly an eternity, but suddenly the snow turns to rain and we note the first small plants and grass. We reach Khuspain at abut 11 a.m., all are wet and have a loger rest for supper. All try to dry their clothes on small fires and tea and some cookies provide new energy. The porters want to get ahead as far as possible and they persuade us to continue to Shaicho. But nobody knew that there were still many kilometers, a 5-7 hours way.
The way became longer and longer. Moreover, we had to cross two rivers. Christian, Markus, Ralf and the porters arrived at Shaicho at 4.45 p.m., which is located between green woods at about 3600m altitude. Lydia and Olaf arrived later in the dawn.
17.08.2001
The stage for today was nothing when comapred to our yesterday's way. So we had a real relaxed morning for the first time during our expedition. We went through the broad Hushe Valley to Hushe where most of our porters are come from. It took only 3 hours and we arrived at the village at noon. In Hushe, the weigt were checked and the porters were paid. 3000 Rupees each for three days excerting work plus two days for getting to the base camp. And because they mastered the difficult conditions at the Gondogorowe gave a tip of 100 Rupees.
After being paid, happy face everywhere. Some porters showed us their children happy that daddy is home again. We gave all of our chocolade which resulted in transports of joy among the rural population.
But the stay at Hushe changed for us suddenly. One man brought us his child which has not eat and drink anything since five days. After a short examination, Lydia (nurse) and Olaf (veterinarian) diagnose a severe diphtery. So we postponed our depart for one hour to give at least a basic medical aid. Lydia made some infusions so that the boy could take the medicals by himself. Christian called his girl-friend, which is pharmacist, to get the doses for children. Fortunately we had the right medicaments with us and could help. So our yesterday's experience was reinforced being happy to live in a land where a eight years boy has not to die from dipthery even if not an expedition comes along by chance.
Finally, we continued our way by Jeep to Kande. Just before Khaplu, the Hushe valley meets the gigantic Indus valley, and the road becomes good. Only a flat tyre costed us one hour. At 8 p.m., we arrived at Skardu and checked in the famous K2 Motel. For the first time since weeks, We sit on a table for dinner, with porcellaine plates. But the most exciting was the hot shower thereafter!!! :-)
The civilization has got us again!
Markus Walter, Skardu 18.08.2001
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